从卡地亚珠宝展看“新零售“时代下品牌的自我救赎（下）

嗯，热点是要蹭的。

上篇从《演员的诞生》看“新零售“时代下品牌的自我救赎（上）里提到，零售回归本质，这个本质就是人情。

人，就是销售人员，情就是客户关系。所以今天这篇我们就说客户关系。

继伦敦和纽约之后，卡地亚全新RÉSONANCES DE CARTIER高级珠宝系列于1月19日至27日在上海外滩的艺术文化新地标——复星艺术中心，呈献一场精彩的高级珠宝交响乐。以稀世宝石为音符，以丰沛创意为曲谱，包括RÉSONANCES DE CARTIER系列在内的逾400件高级珠宝臻品在卡地亚的大师指挥棒下，谱写出流淌着盎然生命之歌的乐章。

奢侈品牌的高级珠宝展绝对是对客户关系最直接的检验，而且这种检验近年来越来越频繁。

以卡地亚为例，这个1992年在上海设立了首家专柜的法国品牌，经过在中国市场25年的精耕细作，成为在中国最成功（个人认为，没有之一，就是最成功的）的高级腕表珠宝品牌，也是厉峰集团当之无愧的”大儿子”摇钱树，其与客户“产生关系”的主要途径除了遍布全国的直营或经销商（例如百利建）门店外，就是每年1-2次的全球范围或区域性的顶级珠宝展。

卡地亚最近一次在上海的高级珠宝展正是一年之前（2016年11月）在上海外滩源壹号的Cartier Magicien系列高级珠宝展。在这期间，仍会有在其他国家的珠宝展，比如2017年4月，在新加坡巴黎美术馆进行的则是Etourdissant主题的珠宝展。

珠宝展可不是纯粹的一个花好月圆共襄盛举的“展览”，她是一场campaign——一场草木皆兵财富收割的战役，她是一场event——一场销售数字分配到每家店铺甚至每个sales头上的selling event。

以笔者在业内的经验来说，珠宝展对大多说一线销售人员就是一场灾难，除了每家店铺个别几个手中有大客户的资深销售人员之外，绝大多数销售人员想在几天之内销售掉单价是其平日里店铺日常销售几十倍甚至上百倍的高级珠宝，几乎就是不可能完成的任务。其实往往在珠宝展之前，展品已经由掌握大客户资源的销售人员通过各种方式让有购买实力的目标客户提前预览，真正最终被写上邀请名单的客户都是或多或少有了购买意向的，所以与其说是珠宝展，不如说是一场有珠宝、美食、明星、美景为伴的celebration moments.

没有耕耘，何来收获。

卡地亚已经是珠宝展的老司机，无论是规格和流程都是最豪华的，驾轻就熟的珠宝盛宴产生一个过亿的销售数字对这样的品牌来说不是难事，要么怎么说她是令竞争对手望其项背的最成功的品牌呢？这有赖于其数十年如一日的品牌渗透、年复一年的客户培育和千千万万个员工的日常累积，80%的销售是20%的员工创造的这个理论在珠宝展上体现得最淋漓尽致。

盛名之下，居安思危。

当下的中国毕竟不是那个当年她初相识的中国，消费升级下，越来越多的中产阶层消费群体涌现，加上更加年轻一代的在互联网时代成长的年轻消费群体的崛起，“老一代”的奢华品牌在这个“新零售”时代该如何与消费者继续“保持关系”，赢在未来呢？

理论有很多，观点也不少，但总绕不过一件事情，那就是——数字化。

以下来自BOF的一篇题为《Digitising The Sales Associate》的文章在这方面作了阐述。

For one New England woman, an avid shopper in Boston and Manhattan, her friendships with sales associates at luxury boutiques and upscale department stores go back as far as 20 years. “I have relationships with people that are insane,” she says, remembering one longstanding sales associate from a major department store — known for having the best Chanel at the best prices — who would open for business early on Saturday mornings for her most loyal shoppers.

对于一位在波士顿和曼哈顿购物的新英格兰女性来说，她与奢侈品专卖店和高档百货公司的销售助理之间的友谊可以追溯到20年前。“我和那些不可思议的人有关系，”她说，想起了一家大型百货公司的长期销售助理——以最好的价格拥有最好的香奈儿(Chanel)——她会在周六早上为她最忠实的顾客开门营业。

Some sales associates get her first access to new deliveries and sales. Some hold items until later in the season when discounts deepen, or alert her when something is returned and immediately jumps to a major discount. “They send you pictures, 15 to 20 at a time, saying ‘This is available on sale,’” she explains. Now her Millennial daughter, living in California, is developing her own personal relationships with sales associates on both coasts of the country. “They know what I want and what my style is,” she says. They also help her score designer pieces at discounts.

一些销售助理或让她第一时间收到新品通知，一些销售会将某些产品“雪藏”到有折扣的时候通知她，或者在即将打折之前打折的时候通知她。她解释说:“他们每次给你发15到20张图片，说‘这是特价出售’。”现在，她的00后的女儿住在加州，她正在与全国各地的销售伙伴建立自己的私人关系。“他们知道我想要什么，我的风格是什么，”她说。

Clienteling, or the art of developing long-term relationships with key customers based on data about their preferences, behaviours and past purchases, is nothing new, as this mother-daughter duo demonstrate. But as the shopping habits of digitally savvy Millennials — and those who have adopted a Millennial mindset — have evolved, so too have sales associates.

正如这位母女二人所展示的那样，客户的喜好、行为和过去的购买行为，都是与关键客户建立长期关系的艺术，这并不是什么新鲜事。但是，随着数字时代的千禧一代的购物习惯——以及那些采用了千禧一代思维模式的人——的购物习惯已经发生了变化，销售顾问们也随之开始改变起来。

Facing a wave of online competition, traditional brick-and-mortar boutiques and department stores are fighting back by digitising the powerful relationships that often exist between seasoned sales associates and their best customers. Of course, sales associates have long used services like text message — and increasingly WhatsApp, Instagram and WeChat — to engage with customers. But now stores are equipping them with specialised training and clienteling software designed to optimise their efforts.

面对一波网络竞争，传统的实体店和百货商店正在通过数字化的方式来反击，这种关系通常存在于经验丰富的销售人员和他们最好的客户之间。当然，销售助理们长期以来都在使用短信——以及越来越多的WhatsApp、Instagram和微信——来与客户打交道。但现在，商店正在为他们配备专门的培训和客户服务软件，以优化他们的工作。

“Everyone has to think differently now, and the style advisor is the same thing,” says Saks Fifth Avenue president Marc Metrick, referring to the New York-based luxury department store’s approximately 4,500 sales associates, which it calls “style advisors.”

萨克斯第五大道(Saks Fifth Avenue)总裁Marc Metrick说:“现在每个人都有不同的想法，销售顾问也是一样。”他指的是纽约奢侈品百货公司的大约4500名销售助理，他们称之为“时尚顾问”。

“I can spend all day long on tech to try to compete with Amazon and I’ll lose,” he says. “Or I can spend all my money on marketing and packaging and try to go after Net-a-Porter, and it would be a tough fight. But what I want to do is take my core competency, which is my style advisors and the relationships they build with their core customers, and I want to extend that into the digital space.” Indeed, Saks now encourages its sales associates to become “mini-marketers” across all platforms.

他说:“我可以花一整天的时间在科技上与亚马逊竞争，但我一定会输。”“或者我可以把我所有的钱都花在营销和包装上，试着追赶Net-a-Porter，这将是一场艰难的战斗。”但我想做的是把我的核心竞争力，也就是我的销售顾问和他们与核心客户建立的关系，我想把它延伸到数字空间。事实上，Saks现在鼓励其销售助理在所有平台上成为“迷你营销人员”。

At New York luxury fashion and beauty boutique Fivestory, founder Claire Olshan decided to boost her investment in her sales staff two years ago, replacing three sales associates with personnel with higher experience levels (the team now numbers five including the manager). “You have to interview a lot of people and find the special ones,” she says. “We hit our customers now digitally multiple times a day whether that [is through] our mailers or our Instagram,” says Olshan. “They then will respond to their sales person with a screenshot or something and say, ‘I just saw this’ or ‘Can you hold this for me?’ or ‘Can you send this to my house?’”

在纽约奢侈品时尚与美容精品公司Fivestory，创始人克莱尔•奥尔山(Claire Olshan)两年前决定增加对她的销售人员的投资，将三名销售助理替换为拥有更高经验级别的人员(目前该团队包括经理在内的5人)。她说:“你必须面试很多人，找到特别的人。”Olshan说:“我们的客户现在每天都要用数字方式沟通好几次，不管是通过邮件还是Instagram。”“然后他们会用截图或其他东西回应他们的销售人员，然后说‘我刚看到这个’或者‘你能帮我拿这个吗?’”或者“你能把这个送到我家吗?”

In 2016, Fivestory also invested in software from NetSuite to track customers and the sales associates’ message conversations in one database. “We have more information at our fingertips to understand the customer more, whereas before we had to fill in the gaps,” she says, adding that her associates can now maintain more relationships with more clients as a result.

2016年，Fivestory还投资了NetSuite软件，跟踪客户和销售助理在一个数据库中的信息对话。她说:“我们有更多的信息可以让我们更了解客户，而在我们必须填补这些空白之前，”她补充说，她的同事现在可以与更多的客户保持更多的关系。

At Saks, too, a partnership with retail technology platform Salesfloor, launched almost two years ago, has made its style advisors more efficient. The software connects online shoppers on desktop and mobile with style advisors in their area and at their nearest stores. It’s a way to build human relationships with online shoppers, particularly Millennials, who are “not used to being clientele,” says Metrick, and aren’t always aware of the benefits of forging relationships with sales associates.

在Saks，两年前推出的与零售技术平台Salesfloor的合作，使其销售顾问更加高效。该软件将桌面和移动的在线购物者与他们所在地区的销售顾问和最近的商店联系起来。这是一种建立人际关系的方式，尤其是千禧一代，他们“不习惯成为客户”，Metrick说，他们也不知道与销售伙伴建立关系的好处。

The results are promising: about 10 percent of online shoppers who interact with associates through Salesfloor end up making a purchase, much higher than Saks.com's overall conversion rate of approximately 1.7 percent. (The website gets about 150 million visitors per year.) Average order values are about double the website’s average of just under $500. And for online shoppers who interact with these style advisors through Salesfloor, who can address fit and sizing, the return rate can be half that of Saks’s online purchases. (Metrick declined to share the overall return rate, but it can be as high as 30 to 40 percent for e-commerce.)

结果是令人充满希望的：:约有10%的在线购物者通过Salesfloor与同事进行互动，这比Saks.com的总转化率(约1.7%)要高得多。(该网站每年的访问量约为1.5亿人次。)平均订单价值大约是网站平均价格不到500美元的两倍。对于那些通过Salesfloor与这些销售顾问进行互动的在线购物者来说，他们的回复速度可以是Saks在线购物的一半。(Metrick拒绝分享整体回报率，但电子商务可能高达30% - 40%。) 。

Responding to requests from the sales staff, the company also recently launched an internal app called Saks Connect, which allows sales associates to view an item’s availability across store and online inventory and pull together an order for a client from different sources. As a result, the percentage of Saks Fifth Avenue transactions captured on its clientele system, which is a profile of shoppers and their purchase history, rose to approximately 80 percent from 60 percent. “Eventually that can go into our recommendation engine and help our styling advisors formulate specific recommendations for that client,” said Metrick.

为了回应销售人员的要求，该公司最近还推出了一款名为“Saks Connect”的内部应用程序，该应用程序允许销售人员在商店和在线目录中查看商品的销售状态，并为来自不同来源的客户提供订单。因此，Saks Fifth Avenue的交易占其客户系统的比例从60%上升到80%，这是购物者和他们购买历史的一个重要特征。“最终，这可以进入我们的推荐引擎，帮助我们的造型顾问为客户制定具体的建议，”Metrick说。

“This is about the style advisor being as smart and as capable as they possibly can… I don’t invest in gimmicky technology,” he adds. “The people that work in my stores, they are my technology. They are my differentiator.”

这是让销售顾问能够像他们一样聪明的话题,可能可以…我不投资噱头技术,”他补充道。“在我店里工作的人，他们就是我的技术。他们就是令我与竞争对手有所区别的核心竞争力。”

MTR观点

此时此刻，在外滩那幢充满韵律之美的新空间里，也许卡地亚的销售人员正在与下榻在华尔道夫酒店的尊贵客人们觥筹交错的谈论试戴那些价值连城的美丽宝石，但我想品牌在对这一场珠宝展胜券在握的同时，或许也同样在思考，如何让珠宝展现场以外的分布在全国的卡地亚店铺里数以千计的销售人员在未来的每一天更好的与更广大的客户产生更持久的关系。

这也是“新零售”时代，摆在每个品牌面前的不可回避的课题。

本文部分英文原文来自于BOF，由MTR及Terry Tian编译及创作成文。

Terry Tian：

MTR首席营销官，新零售专家，10年奢侈品零售管理运营及大客户维护经验，先后服务过Hermes，LVMH，Tiffany，Chanel等顶级奢华品牌。